Whatever the season, it hardly matters. In Cogne, in Aosta Valley, less than an hour’s drive from Courmayeur, visitors come for more than cross-country skiing or the meadows that, from spring onwards, lead to spectacular mountain trails.The town is, in fact, a favourite destination for many gourmands, who come for a weekend of flavour devoted to local specialties and plenty, truly plenty, of cheese. Once you arrive in the village, past the wooden fences and a few houses, finding a dozen places not to be missed is very easy: according to the locals, Cogne is one of those places where you simply can't find bad food – or food that's worse than elsewhere.Here are ten addresses not to be missed.
Le Petit Bellevue
Rue Grand Paradis, 22; Cogne. info@hotelbellevue.it
Five tables, each inspired by the table setting of a different century, from 1600 to 2000. The menu ranges from mountain to sea: diners choose between the Esprit and Terroir tasting menus, in which chef Niccolò de Riu lets his imagination run wild with local specialties (including Lillaz char) and foreign ones, such as foie gras. Sweet-and-sour saffron or a Metamorphosis of red beet, with mushrooms, mint, hazelnuts and cream, make for a fine finish.
Bar à Fromage
Rue Grand Paradis, 21; Cogne. info@hotelbellevue.it
It is anything but a bar. In front of a fireplace, between a cheese counter and a view over the valley, the menu offers fresh and aged cheeses to pair with homemade compotes, mostarde and jams. Next come melted cheese or a generous fondue chinoise (boiling broth in which to dip meat): the challenge is making it to the last part, which includes rice and eggs.
La Brasserie du Bon Bec
Rue Bourgeois, 72; Cogne. info@hotelbellevue.it
Dark wood, portraits on the walls and candlelight: this restaurant is a blend of French brasserie and mountain style. Tables are laden with polenta, smoked trout, pierrade and chocolate fondue, to be ordered at the start of the meal, as well as snails, Savoyard tartiflette with potatoes, Reblochon cheese, smoked pancetta and braised onions. All of it comes alongside the house specialty, the frecacha, a veal patty (also with potatoes and onions) served steaming in a small cast-iron pan.
Eco Wellness Hotel Notre Maison
Frazione Cretaz, 8; Cogne. hotel@notremaison.it
In the hamlet of Cretaz, facing the mountains, stands the Celesia family’s chalet. The extensive menu is perfect for anyone who wants to explore local tradition from top to bottom.The Lillaz trout is delicate and flavourful, while the tartare is seasoned right at the table. Meanwhile, on the grill, the zero-mileage meats are turned and turned again each evening by the owner himself. Have an aperitif in the spa before dinner, sip homemade liqueurs afterwards, sleep in wood-panelled rooms, and set off again the next morning.
Lou Ressignon Locanda Taverna
Rue de Mines, 22; Cogne. info@louressignon.it
Seupetta à la Cogneintze (rice, fontina, semi-wholemeal bread croutons) and tartare alla Gressonara (from Gressoney: Piedmontese fassona beef topped with vegetables and bagna cauda) are the signature dishes of this restaurant, which also serves generous portions of pork and lamb.The wine list is rich, with more than 250 labels, mostly regional.
Le Ferme du Grand Paradis
Frazione Valnontey, 32; Cogne. info@lafermedugrandparadis.it
It is not just an agriturismo with six rooms and a small restaurant, but above all a dairy open to the public: it produces PDO fontina, fresh and aged goat cheeses, toma cheeses, a flavoured cheese (tomato, sesame and poppy seed) and pink-pepper crottin.
Azienda Agricola Le Motte
Località Gimillan 76B; Cogne. www.lemottecogne.it
Born from the recovery of abandoned land, this is the right place to buy organic fruit and vegetables, including wonderfully juicy raspberries, strawberries and currants, as well as the artemisia used to make the genepy liqueur. Preserves and jams are also on offer and make perfect souvenirs.
Cave de Cogne
Rue de Bourgeois, 50; Cogne. info@lacavedecogne.com
A place to stock up on wine: it is a wine shop (don’t miss the Aosta Valley liqueurs) and wine bar, but also a tea room and small restaurant with a fireplace room.
Maison du Goût
Frazione Lillaz, 33; Cogne. info@lamaisondugout.it
This food shop with an attached café was already in business in the 1800s. Its signature items are the mecoulin (a sort of panettone, the pride of the town), the stella alpina (shaped like the flower of the same name and filled with jam, pistachios, walnuts and raisins) and Gran Paradiso bread.
Troticoltura Thomasset
Frazione Lillaz, 121; Cogne.
This is where the trout served at dozens of restaurants in the area come from: from May to October, the trout farm is open to the public, both for line fishing in its small lakes and for buying fish. You can choose from rainbow trout, salmon trout, Alpine char and a few sturgeons.
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