Fontina fondue is a typical dish of the Alpine arc and of the group of regions stretching from Aosta Valley to Switzerland, by way of Piedmont.
Although the preparation is found throughout these areas, with some variations, only one region can claim full parentage: Aosta Valley, since the main ingredient of the traditional version is Fontina Valdostana PDO.
This is a prized cheese, made exclusively from the raw whole milk of cows of the native Aosta breeds (the Aosta Red Pied, the Aosta Black Pied and the Aosta Chestnut), which are fed on mountain pastures.
The origin of the recipe is uncertain: some say it was born beyond the mountain passes leading into Switzerland; others believe it was created through the inspiration of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Italy’s first Prime Minister and a well-known gastronomy enthusiast.
What is certain is that one of its most famous fans was Pellegrino Artusi. In his La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene (1891), the writer and food authority cites fontina fondue as one of the tastiest in Italy and gives it the name “Cicimperio,” from the cacio imperio cheese.
Fontina Fondue
(from Inverno – Vita di cucina e di stagione, Slow Food Editore)
Ingredients (serves 8):
600 g fontina cheese
6 egg yolks
500 ml (about 2 cups) milk
A knob of butter
Salt
Pepper
Difficulty: Easy
Time: Half an hour, plus soaking
Soaking the cheese
Cut the fontina into small cubes or very thin slices and place it in a bowl, just covered with the milk. Leave to soak for at least four hours, or even overnight.
Preparation
When it is time to cook, set a round-bottomed saucepan (recommended) over a bain-marie, or double boiler, and melt the butter in it.
The dairy
As soon as the butter has melted, pour in the milk and cheese and stir with a whisk until the cheese has melted completely and become stringy.
The eggs
Add the egg yolks one at a time, continuing to stir so that they are fully incorporated. The mixture should barely simmer. Once it has thickened into a smooth cream, adjust the salt and season generously with pepper.
Serving
Bring your fondue to the table in individual earthenware dishes or in one large bowl placed in the centre of the table. Guests can dip in small pieces of bread or boiled vegetables.
This article was reviewed by an external translation partner